Travelling by foot, Michael Palin’s Bhutan tour, part of his BBC Himalaya adventure, took him from woodland to excessive country with naked mountain faces and isolated, spectacular villages. Having said farewell to the giants of the Himalaya, he then explored the non secular centres of the Bhutanese cities and monasteries.
Michael started this episode of his epic Himalaya journey near the Tibetan border on the north-western extreme of Bhutan. Excursions working by this region can embody various trekking routes, perhaps by way of the hot springs near Gasa, or the impressive Drukgyel Dzong near Paro or the remoted mountain village of Laya - dwelling to historic tribespeople. All these trekking routes are dominated by the majestic Himalaya range, from which Michael trekked to the inexperienced valleys of Bhutan, heading finally to the flatlands of the Bay of Bengal 600 km to the South.
This BBC Bhutan tour’s entourage consisted of twenty ponies to carry the camping gear, food and equipment, and half as many guides and porters to set up camp and lead the way. This was obligatory as their route was “off-piste” (as Michael referred to as it) taking them by means of a surprising, mountainous landscape with no roads following trails that mountain men have used as commerce routes for hundreds of years, transporting food, garments, animals over lengthy distances.
Michael was quick to level out how he was privileged to be trekking in Bhutan. Tourists should pay a heavy, daily levy while in the nation which, together with a limited number of flights into the country, limits the numbers of visitors. In contrast to some prohibitive, conservative nations that Michael had visited in the past, he explained that the levy was not intended to maintain foreigners away, however merely to handle the impact that they’ve upon the Bhutanese landscape.
After a 3 day trek, Michael and his crew arrived at an unbelievably picturesque, grassy spot alongside the Paro River, the place they would camp for the night. He took off his boots and soaked his aching feet in the icy glacial meltwater, commenting that it was “perfect relief” for feet that had walked 15km a day or extra, and have been usually solely “used for going up and down stairs.” He also talked about that he’d slept better during his Bhutan tour than he often does in London. The place some people battle to sleep at increased altitudes, he put the depth of his newfound slumber right down to the sheer exertion of the trekking experience.
At Paro the following day, Michael joined two thousand pilgrims who had accomplished Bhutan tours of their own to achieve the town in time for the Tsechu Pageant, the religious and cultural highlight of the year. He approached the dzong temple via a market thronging with Bhutan tourism, chanting monks, and stray canine, earlier than joining the crowds within the temple. They gathered across the staircases and balconies overlooking a sunlit, sq. courtyard. Throughout the circle of the audience, the musicians beat upon drums and bells, singing in long tones, whereas troupes danced elaborate, whirling routines dressed in baggy tunics and flowing fabrics. In a country that has had tv for less than a decade and few theatres or cinemas, this was the nice entertainment for the crowd, who have been clearly enthralled by the show.
Later, the Tsechu Competition allowed Michael some time for some meditation in the Queen Mother’s chapel, and he witnessed the sacred early morning ritual of the disclosing of the nice thanka (religious painting) which is as high as a five-storey home and have to be covered once more before it’s touched by the first rays of dawn.
Trekking within the Himalaya clearly had an effect on mister Palin, the perennial traveller. On the highest level of his Bhutan tour, on the Chomolhari base camp - a permanent staging area for trekkers and Bhutanese travellers - Michael was reluctant to depart the final of the good vary behind. Trying up at Mount Chomolhari (7,314 m) he said, “Farewell big, monumental, Himalayan peaks. Farewell Chomolhari.”